Maternity Artemis Coat

I have spent a lot of time considering what kind of maternity outerwear to make as I wanted something suitable for maternity and beyond. I didn’t want to invest time and money making something I could only wear for a short time.

One problem I’ve encountered when it comes to maternity wear is that it is really tricky to find suitable ready to wear (RTW) clothing to fit tall pregnant women. I think I might have mentioned this in my last post, but it is annoying me enough to mention it again.

I am 5’11” and always find my arms are too long for RTW coats and jackets,  the second hand maternity one my friend lent me, while still lovely, is slightly too short in the sleeves for me.

I decided on the Artemis pattern by I AM Patterns, a company I had never tried before. I’d had my eye on the pattern for ages and I’d seen some really nice ones popping up on Instagram. I was particularly drawn to the laid back, oversized style.

I had some leftover navy corduroy after making my maternity dungarees, and think it works really well with this pattern. I bought the corduroy from Merchant and Mills and I couldn’t recommend it enough. I seem to have a bit of a corduroy obsession right now, my last 3 projects have all been made using it.

Sizing wise I decided to go for the biggest size available, which I think was a UK 14? the fit is very oversized and even with my bump it is probably a bit big for me. I am not complaining though as I’m growing rapidly so extra room is always appreciated :).

I didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern other than lengthening by 10cm , as I wanted it to cover my bum.

I didn’t lengthen the sleeves as I don’t think the pattern piece would have fit on the width of my fabric if I had, but I finished them with bias tape and used a small seam allowance, rather than double folding, to give me a bit more length and they hit at the perfect point on my wrist.

I used a combination of techniques to finish the seams, binding the pocket seams and sleeves with homemade polka dot bias tape and overlocking inside the sleeves where the seams wouldn’t be visible. I thought this would help reduce bulk at the underarm where the sleeves are cut on the bias. I worried that if I bound them they wouldn’t hang nicely.

I didn’t originally add closures, but on wearing the coat out once in the Shetland wind I realised this was a mistake as it was blowing open and driving me mad. I covered some buttons in the corduroy and evenly spaced them down the front. I think they look really smart so I’m glad I made this addition.

In terms of the fit of the jacket and overall style, I am really happy with it, it feels really laid back and easy to wear. I do find with the low armholes I sometimes feel it a bit tight across the chest when I raise my arms and it sort of falls off my shoulders when I wear it, but this might be as it’s a bit big. I think without the baby bump to contend with I would have preferred to size down.

Overall though it is definitely serving its purpose as my maternity cover up and I hope I will continue to get a lot of wear out of this for years to come. I love the big pockets and the relaxed style, especially paired with my newly finished hand knit scarf which I will be sharing a blog post on soon.

Artemis Coat Attie and Dora Blog Maternity

Artemis Coat Side View Attie and Dora Blog

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oilskin Kelly Anorak

 

Kelly Anorak by Attie and Dora Close Up

It’s finally done! My first handmade jacket.

I have to be honest I really struggled with this project, not at all because of the pattern, but due to my fabric choice. I think my mum’s quote on seeing the jacket half way through sums it up nicely – ‘you don’t make things easy for yourself do you’– no mam, no I don’t!

It was totally worth it though as I LOVE this jacket. I would go as far as saying it’s my favourite piece of outerwear that I have ever owned, and I made it! I have Closet Case Patterns to thank for that. What an excellent pattern. I strongly recommend you buy it if you want to make your own anorak, although I wouldn’t recommend using oilskin for this unless you have a powerful sewing machine.

I love the design of this jacket. The pockets are roomy and look really professional. I opted for the hood rather than the collar, but didn’t include the drawstring as my fabric was very stiff and I didn’t think it would gather well.

I made some adjustments for my height (I am 5’11”). I lengthened the bodice by 5cm and also lengthened the sleeves. I deliberated about where to add the extra length to the sleeves and decided to just double the length of the cuff. They are now the perfect length for me.

The fabric I used is superb quality khaki oilskin from Merchant and Mills. Oilskin isn’t terrible to work with, but when you have multiple layers to sew through you need some power behind you and unfortunately my sewing machine at the time, a Janome 432S, just didn’t have enough. I have since bought myself a new sewing machine, a Bernina 350PE, and it was able to handle the fabric much better. I found the topstitching particularly tricky on my old Janome. I really struggled to sew the pockets and any other bulky seams. My other traumatic memory of this project was trying to set in the sleeves, easing in oilskin is a nightmare. I managed it eventually, but it took a good few hours.

My tips for working with this oilskin would be:

  • to use bulldog clips, not pins as they mark the fabric
  • use a denim needle, it worked well for me
  • take your time, as the needle will leave permanent and very visible holes in the fabric, so there is no room for error
  • when setting in sleeves, baste first and hold in place with bulldog clips or use pins inside the seam allowance
  • grade seams to reduce bulk wherever possible
  • invest in a hump jumper, or make one out of a piece of card
  • press seams with fingers or use an iron on a low heat with a pressing cloth, test on a scrap of fabric first
  • topstitching this material with topstitching thread is really tricky, so it may be easier to use normal thread as I really struggled to do this neatly, especially on my old Janome.
  • be prepared for one long slow project, as you can’t really make mistakes you will have to really take your time over this, so not a speedy project.

 

Kelly Anorak by Attie and Dora side

Kelly Anorak by Attie and Dora Hood

Kelly Anorak by Attie and Dora back

Kelly Anorak by Attie and Dora front

Kelly Anorak by Attie and Dora Zip

Kelly Anorak by Attie and Dora front 2

Kelly Anorak by Attie and Dora silly

Pattern – Kelly Anorak by Closet Case Patterns

Fabric – Khaki Oilskin from Merchant and Mills

Hardware – Hardware kit from Closet Case Patterns